Sunday, 21 January 2018

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW 2018

Julien David Fall/Winter 2018




On Sunday, January 21st, Schepers Bosman showcased their new collection from Paris.
Schepers Bosman is an Amsterdam based designer duo made up of Sanne Schepers (1989) and Anne Bosman (1988) which was formed last year in January.
The inspiration behind the new Autumn / Winter 2018 collection is a merge between pop and avant-garde. With a Pop Art mind set, the duo started on the new collection taking inspiration from their surroundings. Images from the touristic side of Amsterdam, with classical forms taken from the Amsterdam School and flower paintings from the Golden Age.
The materials used for the collection are made up of cotton corduroys and light weight denims from North England, checkered techno nylon and double stretch fleece. All prints are designed in their studio and are then applied by hand and machine. Schepers Bosman design with graphical colour, a variety of form with a minimalistic impact.

De collection was made possible thanks to the Amsterdam Fund for the Arts (AFK) and the 3PackageDeal.

Photography: Robby Hekkers Instagram

Wednesday, 17 January 2018

‘Heaven or Hell?’

Jólan van der Wiel for Iris van Herpen
‘Heaven or Hell?’
28 January 2018 - 2 September 2018

Be ready for an exhibition on extraordinary shoe design at at Cube Design Museum in Kerkrade (The Netherlands)!
The exhibition is a co-production with Italy’s IMF Foundation and can be visited in the Cube design museum from 28 January to 2 September 2018.

 95% of Dutch women feel more confident when wearing a pair of beautiful shoes. However, an average of 23 pairs of shoes in the closet suggest that shoes also fulfil other desires.
Showcasing 100 pairs of remarkable footwear, the new ‘Heaven or Hell?’ exhibition at the Cube design museum highlights the needs shoes can fulfil and how shoe designers play in on this. Current, iconic specimens, shoes from the recent past, and new innovations for future shoes, ‘Heaven or Hell?’ has them all. Stilettos, ballerinas, wedges, sneakers, flip flops: are they heavenly or hell?

Thursday, 11 January 2018

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination

While FASHIONCLASH Festival is preparing its 10th edition curated around the theme of Fashion My Religion! another annual highlight is in the making in New York.

The Costume Institute's spring 2018 exhibition—at The Met Fifth Avenue and The Met Cloisters—will feature a dialogue between fashion and religious artworks from The Met collection to examine the relationship between creativity and the religious imagination.
Left: El Greco, Cardinal Fernando Niño de Guevara (1541–1609), c. 1600, oil on canvas; right: Evening Coat, Cristóbal Balenciaga for Balenciaga, Autumn/Winter 1954–55

The display of these extraordinary ecclesiastical pieces will highlight the enduring influence of religion and liturgical vestments on fashion, from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Donatella Versace, who is one of the sponsors of the show. Among the 150 or so ensembles that will be on display are pieces by Coco Chanel, who was educated by nuns, and John Galliano, whose transgressive Fall 2000 Couture collection for Christian Dior opened with a mitred, incense-swinging pope-like figure who proceeded down the runway to a voice intoning: “Understand the concept of love.”

Serving as the cornerstone of the exhibition, papal robes and accessories from the Sistine Chapel sacristy, many of which have never been seen outside The Vatican, will be on view in the Anna Wintour Costume Center. Fashions from the early 20th century to the present will be shown in The Met's Medieval and Byzantine galleries and at The Met Cloisters alongside religious artworks, to provide an interpretative context for fashion's engagement with Catholicism.

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” is on view May 10–October 8, 2018. A catalog with photographs by Katerina Jebb will accompany the exhibition.


More information:

Tuesday, 9 January 2018

POWERMASK - Wereldmuseum Rotterdam

Portret Walter Van Beirendonck - photo Aad Hoogendoorn

POWERMASK at Wereldmuseum Rotterdam
Until 18 March 2018

POWERMASK is an exhibition curated by Walter Van Beirendonck. The exhibition is
In the exhibition Power Mask guest curator Walter van Beirendonck shares his fascination for the worlds of masks. Van Beirendonck Explores different functions of masks: the supernatural, rituals, African masks as an inspiration for modern art and masks in contemporary high fashion.

The exhibition features works from artists, designers and photographers like Viktor & Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier, Keith Haring and Thom Browne.

photo Aad Hoogendoorn

Saturday, 30 December 2017

Change the System at Boijmans Van Beuningen

Viktor & Rolf

'Change the System' features projects by designers who want to change the world, either step by step or in one big gesture. With work by more than fifty designers and artists, the exhibition gives a vision of contemporary design’s potency for change: can we rid the oceans of plastic, create a world without plastic, use graphic design to clarify and sharpen social debate?
The exhibition showcases design solutions for global problems such as pollution, conflicts, scarcity of raw materials and political tensions. Alongside existing projects, in the exhibition some of the designers developed new works or carried out experiments with the active participation of the public. Some designers created pop-up production sites in the museum, where they designed together with the public.

With 'Change the System' Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen dedicates itself to the resilience of creativity. The museum wants to inspire its visitors to look at social themes through the eyes of creative thinkers. The exhibition shows a current overview of groundbreaking design as well. From young and renowned designers that relate to the theme in an innovative and personal way and dare to work outside the boundaries of their own disciplines.

Curator Annemartine van Kesteren: “I believe that creativity is a powerful means to address the big questions of the moment. Contemporary design can inspire, initiate change or set a transfiguration of ideas in motion. Change the System gives a current overview of groundbreaking work of designers that relate to social current topics such as scarcity, conflict and unanimity. Change the System does not only exhibit highlights from contemporary design. In five Labs designers develop new work or conduct experiments where they actively involve the visitors.”

Designers in the exhibition
Annelys de Vet, Ari Versluis, Ellie Uytenbroek, Arne Hendrik, Atelier NL, Babs Haenen, Bas van Beek, Bas van Abel, Bastiaan de Nennie, Bertjan Pot, Boyan Slat, Chris Kabel, Children of the Light, Christien Meindertsma, Dave Hakkens, David Jablonowski, Dunne & Raby, Dirk Vander Kooij, Elisa van Joolen, Eric Klarenbeek, Forensic Architecture, Gavin Munro, Formafantasma, G-Star Raw, Guido Geelen, Helmut Smits, Iris van Herpen, James Bridle, Jeroen Wand, Jing He, Jolan van der Wiel, Koehorst n ’t Veld, Lex Pott, Maison Margiela, Malkit Shoshan, Manon van Hoeckel, Marjan van Aubel, Marnix de Nijs, Massoud Hassani, Melle Smets, Metahaven, Into the nightshop, Olivier van Herpt, Pauline van Dongen, Ruben Pater, Sabine Marcelis, Sander Wassink, Sarah van Sonsbeeck, Simone Post, Sruli Recht, Studio Wieki Somers, Studio WM, Thomas Thwaites, Tjeerd Veenhoven, Vetements, Viktor&Rolf, We Make Carpets, Yi-Fei Chen.
Maison Martin Margiela

Saturday, 23 December 2017

Gucci SS 2018 campaign

Ignasi Monreal created a Utupian Fantasy artworks for Gucci’s S/S 2018 Campaign
The advertising campaign “Utopian Fantasy” features surreal digital images inspired by eras of Renaissance to Surrealism and paying tribute to three elements of Earth, Sea and Sky. The campaign images will be officially released in January 2018. 

Thursday, 21 December 2017

Goran Sidjimovski - Liminal Lines

Goran Sidjimovski is a Berlin-based knitwear designer with affinity for experimenting with structures and yarns. His work is strongly influenced by theoretical concepts, meanings and words interpretation, and pushes the boundaries of what knitting can be.

He graduated at the University of Applied Sciences in Berlin in September 2017 and during his placement year interned at the leading flat-knitting machine manufacturer company Stoll. With his graduate collection Liminial Lines he was selected as 1 of 6 graduates worldwide by the Textile Museum in Tilburg to work on a collaborative knit project.

The graduate collection Liminal Lines explores the concept of liminality and interprets its discursive meanings (transition, transformation, ambiguity, in-betweenness) from a contemporary perspective in relation to gender and querness.

The liminality is seen as standing on the threshold. It is flexible and does not have a fixed identity or direction. Sometimes it bends to the left, sometimes to the right and sometimes at both sides at the same time. By working on, and with its own disorientation, it discovers several new orientations and inhabits them partially, interchangeably or even simultaneously. At times it just stands besides the threshold and reflects upon what it actually means to stand on a threshold. The observed queer is aware of the violable binary presence and does not try to move in one strict direction. It understands the feminine and masculine not as opposites, but as inhabiting the same space at the same time. They does not see liminality as a transition with direction, but as a life-long process for critical analysis of hegemonic vicious norms.

Lookbook credits

photo: Carlitos Trujullo
model: Fritz alm @ Viva models Berlin
hair & mua: Gianluca Venerdini

Thursday, 14 December 2017

The Vulgar - Fashion Redefined - Modemuseum Hasselt

The Vulgar - Fashion Redefined on show at Modemuseum Hasselt

30.09.2017 - 12.01.2018 

The word ‘vulgar’ was originally used in the English-speaking world to characterize a social class and to describe anything that was commonly prevalent. Over time, this neutral description became an insult. Vulgarity became associated with pretension and ambition, with aspirations to special privileges. And it still conjures up negative connotations – words like ‘provocative’, ‘over the top’ and ‘common’ spring to mind.

Judith Clark has curated and designed the exhibition around 12 new definitions of the word by psychoanalyst Adam Phillips. Arranged around thematic categories, such as ‘Too Much’, ‘Showing Off’ and ‘Extreme Bodies’, Clark and Phillips enter into a dialogue that accompanies the visitor through the exhibition. Creations by Walter Van Beirendonck, Christian Dior, Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé, Prada, Vivienne Westwood, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy amongst others illustrate this complex idea. The exhibition combines historical costume, couture and ready-to-wear fashion with every exhibit reflecting certain aspects of the vulgar. The garments illustrate the instability of taste: what was once equated with vulgarity is re-conjured by designers to become the height of fashion.

Mantua dresses with their extremely large skirts and dramatic silhouettes, which were worn at the English court in the mid-eighteenth century are presented next to creations by contemporary designers. The famous ‘Mondrian dress’ by Yves Saint Laurent engages with copies and reworked versions, and the popular designs by Moschino are confronted with Andy Warhol inspired 1960's Souper dress.

This unique and acclaimed exhibition was previously shown at The Barbican Art Gallery in London and at the Winterpalais in Vienna. For the exhibition in Hasselt new looks from the museum’s collection will be added. ‘The Vulgar’ at Modemuseum Hasselt- located in a former convent- promises to be a provocative and engaging experience.

Tuesday, 5 December 2017

Crafting Plastics! Studio launches 100% Biobased Eyewear

100% Biobased Eyewear Fighting Global Warming 

In November 2017 Crafting Plastics! Studio will launch its first-of-a-kind eyewear collection — the world’s first bioplastic designer frames, created from a new generation of plastics made completely from 100% renewable plant-based materials.

Crafting Plastics! Studio was founded in 2016 by Vlasta Kubušová and Miroslav Kral and is today based between Berlin and Bratislava. The studio was established following a Master’s thesis exploring sustainable and transparent production processes in response to the fashion industry’s exploitative practices. Motivated by the opportunity to develop a product from its very origin, and remaining in control of its entire lifestyle, Crafting Plastics! Studio is revolutionising the properties and the value of the material we know as plastic.

Over the past three years, Crafting Plastics! Studio has been working closely with materials scientists from the Slovak Technical University to create a new form of oil-free, carbon neutral bioplastic material. Strong, malleable and for the duration of its use, the bioplastic decomposes completely once placed in industrial compost, leaving no impact on the environment.

The first manifestation of the material’s properties takes the form of a limited edition designer eyewear range.

About the collection:
The first ready-to-wear eyewear collection is produced purely from our own bioplastic material that we spent the last two years bringing to perfection. Thanks to its pure organic nature, the eyewear can be disposed directly into compost. The material is coloured with natural pigments, such as algae, earth or food pigments.
This eyewear collection comes in 4 colorways (nude, mysterious blue, bohemian earth, orange seaweed) and 4 unisex styles. Thanks to our 3D printing technology, we are able to reduce the amount of waste during disposal of this material up to 90% in comparison to other traditional technologies.

Link to Kickstarter campaign:

Crafting Plastics! Studio
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Sunday, 3 December 2017

The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied Fondazione Prada Venice

“The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied.”

 Fondazione Prada Venice 

“The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied.” is a transmedia exhibition project, the result of an ongoing, in-depth exchange between writer and filmmaker Alexander Kluge, artist Thomas Demand, stage and costume designer Anna Viebrock and curator Udo Kittelmann. The exhibition unfolds on three storeys of the 18th century palazzo – the ground floor and the two main ones – and include photographic and film works, as well as spatial settings and loans from private and public collections.

The long process which led to the realization of this project is not only the result of discussions and exchanges between the authors involved in it, but also the outcome of a misunderstanding. The sharing of a reproduction of a painting by Angelo Morbelli Giorni… ultimi! (1883), generated in the three artists and in the curator different interpretations of its subject, which depicts a group of elderly destitute men within the Pio Albergo Trivulzio in Milan. More specifically, the portrayed individuals had been mistaken for retired sailors spending their old age at the hostel. This suggestion not only caused the marine metaphor in the exhibition title, inspired by Leonard Cohen’s song Everybody Knows (1988), but also the choice to devote a monographic room to Morbelli, hosting seven of his works. 

Quoting William Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar “Why, now blow wind, swell billow, and swim bark! The storm is up, and all is on the hazard”, Udo Kittelmann underlines how this collaboration generated out of a “shared awareness, both on an emotional and theoretical level, of the critical aspects of present times and the complexity of the world we live in”. In a dialogue of polyphonic references and constellations between the contributions of each artist, the exhibition spans film, art and theatre media. The confluence of image spaces and scene settings for a variety of atmospheres transforms the historic palazzo of Ca’ Corner della Regina into a metaphorical site for the identification of the worlds we live in and our personal attitudes towards them. The exhibition aims to provide comprehensive insight into the respective production of Alexander Kluge, Thomas Demand and Anna Viebrock, whose artistic endeavours have always extended beyond the aesthetic and imaginative, and were conceived with political and historical intentions. All three artists reveal themselves as pathfinders and clue seekers, witnesses and chroniclers of times past and present.

Out of this, an exhibition is generated, intended as a space for experiences and encounters. This visually powerful, multi-layered environment bestows expression and meaning on the everyday and on the worlds of yesterday and today, between apparent normality and catastrophe, in a society divided between lust for life and loss of trust, extreme distress and never-ending hope.

As stated by Kittelmann, “It is a particularly lucky coincidence that Alexander Kluge’s filmic production, Thomas Demand’s photographic work and Anna Viebrock’s stage settings are brought together in this collective exhibition concept, melding what are usually distinct artistic forms of expression. Until now their different creative fields have prevented them from engaging in this kind of symbiotic collaboration, even though they know one another personally and have often exchanged ideas.”

In “The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied.” each visitor can create its own narration in complete freedom, physically and conceptually moving through the visual imagery of the three artists. Through this, three commonly accepted ideas are questioned: the traditional separation between spectators and theatre set designs, the reduction of filmic products to mere exhibited objects and the visual isolation where artworks are usually presented within a show.
The exhibition “The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied.” will be accompanied by an illustrated book edited by Udo Kittelmann and published by Fondazione Prada. Made up of three volumes, it includes the English and Italian editions of “The Great Hour of Kong. A Chronicle of Connections” by Alexander Kluge and the catalogue of the project with essays, poems and texts by Devin A. Fore, Niccolò Gravina, Udo Kittelmann, Alexander Kluge, Rachel Kushner, Ben Lerner, Helmut Lethen, Thomas Oberender and Aurora Scotti.

images: brankopopovicblog

Thursday, 30 November 2017

Design Academy Eindhoven Graduation 2017

Graduation Show 2017 - MINED 'Digging deep is digging hard'

MINED – the overall theme for the Graduation Show 2017 – indicates how individual designers build on intelligence and empathy, and dig deep into themselves and into every available resource to share their ideas with the world.
During the Dutch Design Week I have visited the DAE graduation and had the pleasure to meet many talented designer who, as the theme implied, openly shared their stories.
In the following post you can take a look at some of my encounters.
Dasha Tsapenko

9th edition of Serbia Fashion Week

Isidora Ceković
The 9th edition of Serbia Fashion Week took place from 20 - 27 November.

Taking place in Novi Sad, Serbia Fashion Week is one of the biggest fashion events in Eastern Europe. Each edition designers from all over the world are showing alongside national designers.
The event takes place in Novi Sad, Serbia's second largest city in the Vojvodina region. Novi Sad is elected to be European Capital of Culture in 2021.
Main event location is at the Novi Sad fair, the Master Center.

With the Serbia Fashion Awards on Monday November 27, the 9th edition came to an end at the Italian Embassy in Belgrade. Honoring the Serbian and international designers that stood out this edition. Special guest this edition was Miss Patrizia Gucci, the heiress of the Gucci family who visited Serbia to promote her book 'GUCCI'.

The first award, which I had the honor to announce was for Iva Kujundžić, the winner of FTDC (Fashion Talent Design Competitions). With this award, Iva Kujundžić has won participation at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2018 in Maastricht.
In general, for me personally the Fashion Talent Design Competitions (FTDC and EFTDC) are the highlights of the fashion week. Other Serbian talented designers and finalists of the FTDC are Kristina Ivković, Isidora Ceković and Katarina Vučićević.

Master Centar fair Novi Sad
The three international designers, finalists of EFTDC are Igor Lukić, Nina Grubar, Cesan (Gabriela Sanchez and Cedric Grunewaldt). Bosnian designer Igor Lukić, won the EFTDC for his collection of bags presented under his brand name Monolith Leather & Wood.

Since few years FASHIONCLASH collaborates with Serbia Fashion Week by means of exchanging designers. Dutch fashion talent, Maastricht based designer Maarten van Mulken has been invited to represent to represent FASHIONCLASH Festival at Serbia Fashion Week.
Maarten showed his collection 'Kill Your Darlings' that he presented at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2017 edition.
"They call deleting ideas ‘killing your darlings’, but often good ideas are being cancelled instead of the weakest. The general idea is getting dumbed-down to make it more commercial and gain more money. This to me refers to fashion being dead, because it’s all about just selling as much as possible these days. Fashion to me is not dead, it just needs to change into a new form and people need to be encouraged to pursue their ideals/ideas instead of killing them." 

Taking place from over the period of seven days, the Serbia Fashion Week has a rather intense programme, giving stage to both established designers as young designers. Highlights this edition included Marios Karavasilis (Greece), Cyril Mirat (France), Boško Jakovljević (Serbia) and the Young designers show curated by stylist and editor Srđan Šveljo.

Take a look at the highlights from the shows and behind the scenes here below.

Maarten van Mulken

Glasstress 2017

Ai Weiwei
Glasstress: Contemporary glass art work

Glasstress brings together 33 leading contemporary artists from Europe, the United States, the Middle East and China in an ambitious exhibition exploring the endless creative possibilities of glass. Conceived by Fondazione Berengo, the project will take place in two exceptional historic locations: Palazzo Franchetti in Venice and a converted furnace in Murano.

Glasstress is a project by Adriano Berengo to further his mission of marrying contemporary art and glass. Artists of all disciplines from sculptors to musicians have been invited to collaborate with the maestros in creating art in glass. Since 2009, these works have been exhibited in the historic Palazzo Franchetti, home of the Istituto Veneto di Scienze Lettere ed Arti. Glasstress has always been accredited as an official collateral event of the Venice Biennale of Art. Glasstress, a showcase of this collaboration of craft and creativity, has forged a new trajectory for glass and a new path for contemporary artists.

Karen Lamonte
Since its debut as a collateral event of the Venice Biennale in 2009, Glasstress has revived the traditional craft of Murano glassblowing by forging new alliances with internationally renowned artists and designers and has since become an unparalleled platform showcasing ground-breaking new works in glass.

The 2017 edition of Glasstress presents an impressive line-up of artists including Ai Weiwei, Jan Fabre, Abdulnasser Gharem, Alicja Kwade, Paul McCarthy, Laure Prouvost, Ugo Rondinone, Thomas Schütte and Sarah Sze. With little or no prior experience working with glass, these artists have embraced the challenge of creating extraordinary works in this very delicate medium in collaboration with Muranese artisans. The remarkable output of this unusual encounter defies the stereotypes associated with this ancient craft, ultimately pushing the boundaries of both contemporary art and glass.

Glasstress 2017 is curated by Dmitry Ozerkov (Director of the Hermitage 20/21 Project for Contemporary Art at the State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg), Herwig Kempinger (President of Secession, Association of Visual Artists, Vienna) and Adriano Berengo (President of Fondazione Berengo and founder of Glasstress, Venice), with the consultancy of Clare Phyllis Davies (Assistant Curator of Modern and Contemporary Art, Middle East, North Africa, and Turkey at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).

New artists 
Ai Weiwei (China), Charles Avery (UK), Dike Blair (USA), Graham Fagen (UK), Gaia Fugazza (Italy), Abdulnasser Gharem (Saudi Arabia), Loris Gréaud (France), Xenia Hausner (Austria), Siggi Hofer (Italy), Halim Al-Karim (Iraq), Brigitte Kowanz (Austria), Karen LaMonte (USA), Paul McCarthy (USA), Haroon Mirza (UK), Laure Prouvost (France), Monira Al-Qadiri (Kuwait), Ugo Rondinone (Switzerland), Markus Schinwald (Austria), Sarah Sze (USA), Sabine Wiedenhofer (Austria), Dustin Yellin (USA)

Returning artists 
Monica Bonvicini (Italy), Tony Cragg (UK), Erin Dickson (UK), Jan Fabre (Belgium), Josepha Gasch-Muche (Germany), Shirazeh Houshiary (Iran), Alicja Kwade (Poland), Vik Muniz (Brazil), Jaume Plensa (Spain), Thomas Schütte (Germany), Koen Vanmechelen (Belgium), Erwin Wurm (Austria)


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